Nestled in the remote mountains of Kalinga, Philippines, lies a small village that has captured the imagination of travelers and culture enthusiasts from around the world—Buscalan. Known as the home of the legendary traditional tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od, Buscalan Village offers a unique blend of history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes. This guide will take you through everything you need to know about Buscalan Kalinga, from its rich tattooing traditions to practical travel tips. So, pack your bags and get ready for an unforgettable adventure into the heart of Kalinga’s cultural heritage!
Table of Contents
Where is Buscalan?
Located in the northern part of the Philippines, Buscalan Village is situated in the province of Kalinga. This remote village is perched on a mountain ridge, surrounded by lush rice terraces and dramatic landscapes that seem to be pulled straight out of a postcard. Getting to Buscalan requires determination, as the journey involves a combination of long drives and challenging hikes, but the rewards are more than worth it.
Geography and Accessibility
Buscalan is part of the Tinglayan municipality in Kalinga. The village is accessible by foot, with the nearest road being several kilometers away. This isolation has helped preserve its cultural practices, particularly its traditional tattooing methods. Visitors to Buscalan are often struck by the village’s tranquility, the beauty of its surroundings, and the warmth of its people.
Buscalan Tattoo Tradition
Buscalan is world-renowned for its traditional Kalinga tattoos, known as “batek.” These tattoos are more than just body art; they are deeply embedded in the cultural identity of the Kalinga people. The tattoos symbolize strength, bravery, and social status, and they are often considered a rite of passage.
Buscalan Tattoo Village
Buscalan Village has become synonymous with traditional Kalinga tattooing. The village is a living museum of ancient tattoo practices, where artisans still use the traditional method of hand-tapping ink into the skin using a thorn from a pomelo tree and a bamboo stick. This method has been passed down through generations, with Apo Whang-Od being the most famous practitioner.
Visitors to the village often seek out Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices to receive a tattoo, not just as a form of body art, but as a way to connect with the rich cultural heritage of the Kalinga people.
Buscalan Tattoo Meaning
Each tattoo design in Buscalan carries its own significance. Traditionally, Kalinga tattoos were given to warriors as a mark of their bravery in battle. Over time, the meanings have evolved, but the deep spiritual and cultural significance remains. For many, getting a tattoo in Buscalan is a way to honor and preserve the ancient traditions of the Kalinga people.
Buscalan Tattoo Designs
Female Buscalan Tattoo Designs
Female Kalinga tattoos are often intricate and elaborate, covering large portions of the body. Common designs include repetitive geometric patterns, which symbolize fertility, beauty, and status. These designs are traditionally placed on the arms, legs, and back, often forming an intricate web of interconnected patterns.
Male Buscalan Tattoo Designs
Male tattoos in Buscalan tend to be bold and straightforward, often representing the wearer’s achievements in battle or their social status. These designs include centipedes, which symbolize protection, and other animal motifs that signify strength and courage. The designs are usually placed on the chest, back, and arms, serving as a mark of honor and respect within the community.
How to Go to Buscalan Village in Kalinga
Reaching Buscalan Village is an adventure in itself. Depending on your starting point, the journey can take a full day or more, but the stunning landscapes and cultural immersion make every step worthwhile.
Manila to Buscalan
Travel by Bus or Van
From Manila, the most common route to Buscalan is by taking a bus or van to Bontoc or Tabuk. This journey takes about 10-12 hours, depending on traffic and weather conditions. Buses to Bontoc leave from the Sampaloc area in Manila, with ticket prices ranging from PHP 600 to PHP 900. Alternatively, you can take a bus to Tabuk, which also takes around 12 hours and costs approximately PHP 700 to PHP 1,000.
Transfer to Jeepney or Habal-Habal
Once you reach Bontoc or Tabuk, you will need to take a jeepney or habal-habal (motorcycle taxi) to the jump-off point in Tinglayan. The jeepney ride costs around PHP 100 to PHP 150, while a habal-habal ride may cost between PHP 150 to PHP 300, depending on your negotiation skills.
Hiking to Buscalan
The final leg of the journey involves a hike from the jump-off point to Buscalan Village. The hike takes about 1-2 hours and can be challenging, especially if you’re carrying heavy luggage. Make sure to wear comfortable hiking shoes and bring water and snacks for the trek.
Baguio to Buscalan
Travel by Bus to Bontoc
If you’re coming from Baguio, you can take a bus to Bontoc, which takes about 5-6 hours. The bus fare is around PHP 250 to PHP 300. From Bontoc, follow the same steps as the Manila route to reach Buscalan.
Buscalan to Sagada
Travel from Buscalan to Sagada
After your stay in Buscalan, many travelers opt to visit Sagada, another popular destination in the Cordillera region. To get to Sagada, you will need to return to Bontoc and then take a jeepney to Sagada. The trip takes about 1.5 hours and costs approximately PHP 50 to PHP 100. Sagada is known for its hanging coffins, stunning caves, and vibrant local culture, making it a perfect addition to your northern Luzon itinerary.
Why is Apo Whang-Od Famous?
Apo Whang-Od, born in 1917, is the last traditional Kalinga tattoo artist, or “mambabatok.” She began tattooing at the age of 15 and has since become a cultural icon, known for her dedication to preserving the ancient art of Kalinga tattooing. Her fame has spread internationally, drawing visitors from all over the world to Buscalan.
How Old is Apo Whang-Od?
As of 2024, Apo Whang-Od is 107 years old. Despite her age, she continues to practice her craft, although much of the work has now been passed on to her grandnieces, who she has trained in the traditional methods. Apo Whang-Od’s tattoos are not just a mark of art but a symbol of the enduring legacy of Kalinga culture.
Where to Stay in Buscalan Village?
Buscalan Village offers a variety of homestays where visitors can experience the local way of life. Staying in a homestay is a great way to immerse yourself in the culture and get to know the villagers.
Homestay Options
- Traditional Kalinga Houses: Many of the homestays in Buscalan are traditional Kalinga houses made of wood and thatch. These offer basic amenities, including a bed, shared bathroom, and simple meals. The cost of staying in a homestay typically ranges from PHP 300 to PHP 500 per night.
- Modern Homestays: For those looking for slightly more comfort, some homestays have been modernized with concrete walls, private bathrooms, and even Wi-Fi. These options may cost slightly more, around PHP 500 to PHP 800 per night.
What to Expect in a Homestay
Staying in a homestay is a communal experience. You’ll likely be sharing the space with other travelers, as well as the host family. Meals are usually included, and they typically consist of local dishes made from ingredients grown in the village. It’s a great opportunity to learn more about Kalinga culture and traditions directly from the locals.
How Much is Apo Whang-Od Tattoo?
The cost of getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices varies depending on the size and complexity of the design. Here’s a general breakdown:
Tattoo Pricing
- Small Tattoos: PHP 500 to PHP 1,000
- Medium Tattoos: PHP 1,000 to PHP 2,000
- Large Tattoos: PHP 2,000 and up
It’s important to note that prices can fluctuate based on demand and the intricacy of the design. While the prices are modest by international standards, they reflect the deep cultural significance and labor-intensive process of traditional Kalinga tattooing.
Cultural Considerations
When getting a tattoo in Buscalan, it’s crucial to approach the experience with respect for the culture. The payment for the tattoo is not just a transaction; it’s a way of honoring the artist and the tradition. Many visitors also bring small gifts or donations for the community, which are greatly appreciated.
What to Do in Buscalan Village?
Buscalan is more than just a destination for tattoos; it’s a place to immerse yourself in the culture and beauty of the Kalinga region.
Cultural Immersion
- Visit Local Farms: Spend time learning about traditional farming practices in Buscalan. The villagers cultivate rice, vegetables, and other crops on terraced fields, using methods passed down through generations.
- Interact with Locals: The people of Buscalan are known for their hospitality. Take the time to chat with them, learn about their daily lives, and participate in communal activities such as cooking or weaving.
Tattoo Experience
- Getting a Tattoo: For many, the highlight of a visit to Buscalan is receiving a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices. The process involves hand-tapping ink into the skin using traditional tools, a method that has been used for centuries. The experience is often described as both painful and spiritual, with the resulting tattoo serving as a lifelong reminder of your journey to Buscalan.
- Aftercare: After getting your tattoo, it’s important to follow proper aftercare instructions to ensure it heals well. The villagers will provide you with traditional advice, but it’s also recommended to use modern tattoo aftercare products to prevent infection.
Nearby Destinations to Visit from Buscalan Village
Once you’ve explored Buscalan, consider visiting some of the nearby attractions in the Cordillera region.
Sagada
- Famous for its hanging coffins, Sagada is a must-visit for those interested in the unique burial practices of the Igorot people. The town also offers opportunities for spelunking, trekking, and exploring ancient caves.
Banaue Rice Terraces
- Known as the “Eighth Wonder of the World,” the Banaue Rice Terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage site. These terraces were carved into the mountains by the Ifugao people over 2,000 years ago and remain a testament to their ingenuity and resilience.
Tinglayan
- Just a short distance from Buscalan, Tinglayan is a great place to explore more of Kalinga’s natural beauty. Visit the Sleeping Beauty Mountain or take a dip in the Chico River to cool off after your adventures.
Sample Itinerary for Buscalan Tattoo Village
Here’s a suggested itinerary for a 3-day trip to Buscalan Village, perfect for those coming from Manila.
Day 0: Travel from Manila
Evening Departure:
- Depart from Manila in the evening, aiming to catch an overnight bus to Bontoc or Tabuk. This allows you to maximize your time in Buscalan.
Day 1: Stopover for Breakfast + Arrival in Buscalan
Breakfast Stopover:
- Arrive in Bontoc or Tabuk early in the morning and grab breakfast at a local eatery. This is also a good time to stock up on any supplies you might need for your stay in Buscalan.
Arrival in Buscalan:
- Transfer to a jeepney or habal-habal for the journey to Tinglayan, followed by a hike to Buscalan. Arrive by mid-morning and check into your homestay.
Explore the Village:
- Spend the afternoon exploring Buscalan, meeting locals, and soaking in the scenery. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also get your tattoo on the first day.
Day 2: Buscalan Exploration + Departure
Morning Exploration:
- After breakfast, continue your exploration of the village. Visit Apo Whang-Od’s home and learn more about the tattooing process.
Departure:
- Begin your journey back to Bontoc or Tabuk by mid-afternoon. If you’re planning to visit Sagada, consider spending the night in Bontoc and heading to Sagada the next day.
Travel Tips for Apo Whang-Od Buscalan Tattoo Village
What to Bring
- Hiking Gear: Comfortable hiking shoes, a hat, and sunscreen are essential for the trek to Buscalan.
- Cash: There are no ATMs in Buscalan, so make sure to bring enough cash to cover your expenses.
- Snacks and Water: While the homestays provide meals, it’s a good idea to bring your own snacks and a refillable water bottle.
Cultural Etiquette
- Respect the Locals: Always ask for permission before taking photos of people, especially elders. Be mindful of their traditions and practices.
- Learn Basic Phrases: Learning a few phrases in the local dialect can go a long way in building rapport with the villagers.
Health Considerations
- Vaccinations: Ensure you’re up to date on your vaccinations, including tetanus, especially if you plan to get a tattoo.
- First Aid Kit: Carry a basic first aid kit, including antiseptics and bandages, in case of minor injuries during the hike.
Conclusion
Visiting Buscalan Village in Kalinga is more than just a trip; it’s a journey into the heart of a rich cultural heritage that has been preserved for generations. From the ancient art of Kalinga tattoos to the stunning natural beauty of the Cordillera region, Buscalan offers an experience unlike any other. Whether you’re seeking to get inked by the legendary Apo Whang-Od or simply looking to immerse yourself in the culture and landscapes of northern Luzon, this guide has everything you need to make your trip unforgettable.
So, are you ready to explore Buscalan Kalinga? Start planning your adventure today and get ready to be captivated by the beauty, history, and spirit of this remarkable village.
Frequently Asked Questions about Buscalan Kalinga
1. What is Buscalan Village famous for?
Buscalan Village is renowned for its traditional Kalinga tattoos, especially those created by the legendary tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od. The village is a cultural heritage site where ancient tattooing techniques are preserved and practiced.
2. How do I get to Buscalan from Manila?
To get to Buscalan from Manila, take a bus or van to Bontoc or Tabuk, which takes about 10-12 hours. From there, transfer to a jeepney or habal-habal to reach the jump-off point in Tinglayan, followed by a 1-2 hour hike to Buscalan Village.
3. Where can I stay in Buscalan Village?
Visitors can stay in homestays offered by local villagers. These homestays provide basic amenities and an authentic cultural experience, with prices ranging from PHP 300 to PHP 800 per night.
4. What should I wear when visiting Buscalan?
Wear comfortable and modest clothing suitable for hiking, such as light, breathable fabrics, a hat, and sturdy hiking shoes. It’s also recommended to bring a jacket, as temperatures can drop in the mountains.
5. What activities can I do in Buscalan Village?
In addition to getting a traditional Kalinga tattoo, you can explore the village, interact with locals, learn about their farming practices, and hike the surrounding mountains. The cultural immersion and scenic beauty make for a memorable experience.
6. How much does it cost to get a tattoo in Buscalan?
The cost of a tattoo in Buscalan varies depending on the size and complexity of the design, ranging from PHP 500 for small tattoos to PHP 2,000 or more for larger designs.
7. Is it safe to hike to Buscalan Village?
Yes, the hike to Buscalan is generally safe, but it can be challenging due to the steep terrain. It’s important to wear proper hiking shoes, bring water, and take your time. Hiring a local guide can also enhance your safety and experience.
8. When is the best time to visit Buscalan?
The best time to visit Buscalan is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is more predictable, and the trails are less muddy. Avoid the rainy season, as the hike can become difficult and dangerous.
9. Can I get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od directly?
While Apo Whang-Od still tattoos visitors, most of the work is now done by her grandnieces, whom she has trained. However, getting a tattoo from her is still possible, but it’s important to be patient as many visitors wish to have this experience.
10. What should I bring when visiting Buscalan?
Bring cash (as there are no ATMs in the village), water, snacks, basic toiletries, a first aid kit, sunscreen, and insect repellent. Don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning views and memorable experiences.
Additional Resources for Visiting Buscalan Kalinga
To help you plan your trip to Buscalan Village, here are some reliable online resources and official websites that offer valuable information:
Official Tourism Websites
- Philippines Department of Tourism (DOT): The official tourism website of the Philippines provides information on travel advisories, cultural sites, and must-visit destinations in the country, including Kalinga.
- Cordillera Administrative Region Tourism Website: This regional tourism site offers insights into the various attractions in the Cordillera region, including Buscalan, and provides updates on local events and festivals.
- Kalinga Tourism Office Facebook Page: Follow the official Facebook page for updates on travel advisories, local events, and important information about visiting Buscalan and other parts of Kalinga.
Maps and Navigation Tools
- Google Maps: Essential for planning your route to Buscalan, this tool provides directions, estimated travel times, and points of interest along the way.
Bus and Transport Services
- Victory Liner: One of the major bus companies in the Philippines, Victory Liner operates routes from Manila to Baguio, Tabuk, and Tuguegarao. From these locations, you can continue your journey to Buscalan.
- Coda Lines: Coda Lines offers bus services from Manila to Bontoc and Sagada, which are key stops on the way to Buscalan. Check their schedules and book tickets in advance, especially during peak travel seasons.
- GV Florida Transport: Another reliable bus service provider, GV Florida Transport runs routes from Manila to Bontoc, making it convenient for travelers heading to Buscalan.
These resources will help you gather all the necessary information to make your trip to Buscalan Kalinga as smooth and enjoyable as possible.
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